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March 29th, 2016, 7:08 pm
#1
* Abilene ** Abilene *
  • Joined: March 11th, 2016, 7:02 am
  • Posts: 13

Hi,

I bought a Yoder Wichita a few weeks back. It is being kept under a shelter except for when being used.

The paint is now coming off in small 1/4 inch patches in many spots around the fire box door, and in some places on the actual firebox.

Rust is appearing in these places, as well as around the firebox welds.

Is there a period of time after purchase in which Yoder considers that type of rust something that they will address as a warranty issue and supply the required spray paint? I am based in Australia, and have been quoted over $40 if I buy a can of the paint myself which I would prefer not to spend so close to purchase date.

Thanks in advance....

March 29th, 2016, 11:50 pm
#2
* Abilene ** Abilene *
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  • Joined: August 17th, 2014, 3:08 am
  • Posts: 4

Hi,

Please allow me to introduce myself, I am the Australian importer of Yoder Smokers.

Unfortunately the hole in the ozone layer & our UV rays here in Australia break the paint down much faster than in other countries.

The Australian Warranty of all Yoder Smokers excludes paint because of this reason.

I'm more than happy to give you a aerosol can of the black spray paint that I bring in from Yoder Smokers, the only problem is that due to it being in an Aerosol can I cannot post it to you direct.

Please email me at david@grillpro.com.au and I will work out how to get a can to you.

Kind regards,

David Sprigg
Grill Pro Australia

Exclusive importer of Yoder Smokers into Australia & New Zealand
Instagram: @grill_pro
March 30th, 2016, 9:55 am
#3
Site AdminSite Admin
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  • Joined: April 18th, 2014, 3:12 pm
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April 5th, 2016, 12:17 am
#4
* Abilene ** Abilene *
  • Joined: March 11th, 2016, 7:02 am
  • Posts: 13

I have received my can of paint from Grill Pro, and am thrilled with the standard of customer service. Thanks Dave!

April 23rd, 2016, 12:08 pm
#5
* Abilene ** Abilene *
  • Joined: March 6th, 2015, 11:56 pm
  • Posts: 7

The paint started peeling and the unit started rusting, within THREE WEEKS of purchase. Also, he states that he keeps in the shade. Are you really attempting to blame that on a hole in the ozone and think sending a can of spray paint is a sufficient remedy?



Dave wrote:Hi,

Please allow me to introduce myself, I am the Australian importer of Yoder Smokers.

Unfortunately the hole in the ozone layer & our UV rays here in Australia break the paint down much faster than in other countries.

The Australian Warranty of all Yoder Smokers excludes paint because of this reason.

I'm more than happy to give you a aerosol can of the black spray paint that I bring in from Yoder Smokers, the only problem is that due to it being in an Aerosol can I cannot post it to you direct.

Please email me at david@grillpro.com.au and I will work out how to get a can to you.

Kind regards,

David Sprigg
Grill Pro Australia

July 25th, 2016, 6:55 pm
#6
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: July 18th, 2016, 8:42 pm
  • Posts: 105
  • Location: Houston, TX

Haha - global warming. Good one. That Aussie sun is eating away paint designed to withstand 1200 degrees. Is this thread real?

At any rate, I ordered a can of Yoder touch-up paint before my pit even arrived because I knew there would be some maintenance involved if I wanted my pit to stay in rust-free condition after usage. Yoder has used 2 different paint finishes so make sure you order the right one.

Description from http://www.atbbq.com/yoder-smokers-fact ... paint.html:

Yoder Smokers Factory Matched Touch Up Paint

Touch up paint for Yoder Smokers products. Matches factory paint. Serial number 20180 on 6/29/15 was first satin paint unit, any number before that or before that build date will use flat black paint.

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014
August 19th, 2016, 6:42 pm
#7
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: August 16th, 2014, 10:02 pm
  • Posts: 246
  • Location: Iowa

I treat my Loaded Wichita like i treat my cast iron pans, i keep them oiled!!! I'll spray Pam or rub cooking oil on the fire box anytime I see a bit of rust poke through. I spray the Pam on while the smoker is hot so it can "cook into the steel". I do keep my smoker covered when it's not being used and it still gets some rust on it.
Paint does not last forever and the 1200 or 1500 degree number on the paint can is just that, it's only a number.
At $2400.00 it's worth a few dollars every other month to buy some Pam spray and protect your investment.

December 30th, 2016, 1:23 am
#8
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: July 18th, 2016, 8:42 pm
  • Posts: 105
  • Location: Houston, TX

I tried to treat the rust spots on my firebox lid by sanding and touching up with the matching high-heat paint, but all I ended up doing was cover up the rust spots temporarily until new ones popped up in other areas because the entire layer of paint gets brittle and starts to blister. The only real solution is to remove all the existing paint down to the metal, and then repaint.

I decided that was too much work to maintain, so I went naked! I'm going to try to treat my firebox lid like a cast iron skillet - no paint.

Adding the paint stripper:

firebox-lid-paint-stripper.jpg


Sanding the dried paint remover after 24 hours:
firebox-lid-sanding-stripper.jpg


Paint removed:
firebox-lid-naked-polished.jpg


Polished with wire wheel and oiled:
firebox-lid-polished-oiled.jpg


Seasoned after a long brisket cook, the lid took on a nice bronzy petina. It will only get darker with each use.
firebox-lid-oiled-seasoned1.jpg


No rust after an all-night rain storm. The water is beading off:
firebox-lid-oiled-rain.jpg


Next I'm going to continue treating the lid with pure flax seed oil, which I've read is the best type of oil for seasoning. We'll see how it goes. I think stripping the paint off is unnecessary because the paint will burn off by itself eventually, and you could just keep oiling the lid as needed to keep the bare areas seasoned.

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014
January 30th, 2017, 8:47 pm
#9
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: December 20th, 2015, 4:30 pm
  • Posts: 169
  • Location: Wichita, KS

How does the lid look now? I am going to strip and intensely clean and redo my Yoder this spring. What was your process? Do you mind detailing it out?

Wichita, KS!
New to pellet grilling/smoking

YS-640 ON ORANGE COMP CART
January 30th, 2017, 9:23 pm
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: July 18th, 2016, 8:42 pm
  • Posts: 105
  • Location: Houston, TX

Jfrederick wrote:How does the lid look now? I am going to strip and intensely clean and redo my Yoder this spring. What was your process? Do you mind detailing it out?

It still looks great. No rust at all, and we have had lots of rain this winter (typical Houston). Here's the latest photo:
Image

I've applied flax seed oil now and that stuff hardens so much you can't even scratch it with your fingernails.

The process was slightly labor-intensive because the original coating didn't come off as easily as I thought it would. My prep was pretty simple. I used an old beach towel from my "rag bag" to protect the firebox by opening the lid, placing the towel over the opening, and then closing the lid on top of it. This protected the surrounding areas of the firebox so I didn't scratch the paint there. It is not shown in the original photos, but I used some blue painters tape to mask off the handle area when I started sanding/buffing around it, because I wasn't interested in stripping the finish from it. I haven't had any issues with paint burn on the handle.

I started by sanding, but even with 80 grit sandpaper I couldn't seem to get down to bare metal - it took a lot of sanding. Then I used the paint stripper, but the type of stripper I used was one of those "friendly to the environment" types that can't hold a candle to old-school paint stripper. After I applied the stripper and waited 24 hours, it looked like it only removed the paint down to the metal in the areas where I had almost sanded to the metal prior to applying the stripper (the rusted area in the photo). However, since I wanted to get the job done over a single weekend I didn't want to have to apply another coat of stripper and wait another 24 hours, so I just labored through and finished the job by sanding.

After I got it as good as I could with sandpaper, I switched to a wire wheel on a drill to buff the metal and get all remaining traces of paint off. After I got it nice and shiny, I applied a coating of oil and fired up the smoker for a long brisket cook. By the end of that cook the lid turned a nice bronzy color, and it has gotten a little darker since.

I'll admit I was a little hesitant to remove all the paint at first, but now that I've lived with the results for a while I'm glad I did it. It beads off water like rain-x.

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014
January 30th, 2017, 9:33 pm
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: July 18th, 2016, 8:42 pm
  • Posts: 105
  • Location: Houston, TX

And by the way, I noticed something during this process that I wanted to bring to Yoder's attention.

The paint on my firebox lid peeled off first in 2 areas where they had marked on it using a grease pencil or something. I saw writing under the paint in those areas the first time I tried to do paint touch-ups, but the touch-up paint would never stick to it. Perhaps Yoder needs to figure out a way to fully remove their markings prior to painting, because my paint failed in both of the spots where they marked on the lid. :(

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014
April 21st, 2017, 11:47 am
* Abilene ** Abilene *
  • Joined: March 15th, 2017, 11:00 am
  • Posts: 9

MikesYS wrote:I treat my Loaded Wichita like i treat my cast iron pans, i keep them oiled!!! I'll spray Pam or rub cooking oil on the fire box anytime I see a bit of rust poke through. I spray the Pam on while the smoker is hot so it can "cook into the steel". I do keep my smoker covered when it's not being used and it still gets some rust on it.
Paint does not last forever and the 1200 or 1500 degree number on the paint can is just that, it's only a number.
At $2400.00 it's worth a few dollars every other month to buy some Pam spray and protect your investment.


A couple of points.

Cast iron pans have no paint on them so the analogy isn't a good one. Pam wouldn't be used on cast iron pans anyhow since the aerosol has a solvent effect on a seasoned cast iron pan. Putting cooking oil on the firebox is a waste of time and oil. The firebox gets too hot for the oil to stay on it and polymerize. The way old seasoning is removed from old cast iron is to put it in an oven on the self cleaning cycle or put the cast iron on a bed of burning charcoal. The seasoning flakes off afterwards. I see absolutely no reason to put oil on paint. Just keep the paint in good shape.

Yep, paint doesn't last forever and neither does polymerized oil that you'd find on a cast iron pan and it certainly won't help the firebox.

If you want to see what a loaded Wichita looks like when the owner puts oil on it look at a more recent youtube video of T-Roy Cooks. His firebox is covered with rust. He keeps his smoker outside. He says the rust is there because he forgot to use the smoker cover. The oil certainly didn't protect it.

Use high heat paint and a cover.

April 24th, 2017, 5:07 am
* Abilene ** Abilene *
  • Joined: March 11th, 2016, 7:02 am
  • Posts: 13

I tried a heap of different paint solutions for the firebox including the factory approved paint. Nothing would withstand the temps that the firebox gets to and just came off quickly leaving a rusting firebox.

The only thing that has worked is spending 5 minutes every couple of weeks thinly coating the firebox with flaxseed oil. I run the pit as hot as I like, and the firebox is essentially a similar black (from the polymerised oil) to the black paint on the rest of the pit, even though there is virtually no paint left on the firebox...

Paint that could withstand the heat would be ideal, but coating with oil is the next best thing.

April 24th, 2017, 7:38 am
* Abilene ** Abilene *
  • Joined: March 15th, 2017, 11:00 am
  • Posts: 9

Flaxseed/linseed oil is not commonly used as a cooking oil but it is food grade. It works well in oil paints. I've read good things about using it on cast iron and someone above seems to have had good results using it. Thanks for the information.

July 5th, 2017, 9:53 pm
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: July 18th, 2016, 8:42 pm
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  • Location: Houston, TX

My Loaded Wichita is a year old and my firebox lid still looks great with an oil finish. The only issue for me is when I have to cook in a downpour. The rain basically becomes a steam bath on the firebox lid, and if it rains long enough and hard enough the oil on the top of the lid starts to get steamed off, depending on how thick it is. After a rain storm I have to apply some more oil with a rag, not a big deal.

Here's a photo from a few days ago:

IMG_5040.JPG

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014
September 7th, 2017, 4:02 pm
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Joined: July 18th, 2016, 8:42 pm
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  • Location: Houston, TX

I haven't done anything to my firebox lid in a while (and just endured Hurricane Harvey) and when I took the cover off today for a quick rib cook the lid still looks great with the oil finish.

Image

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014
September 12th, 2017, 1:32 pm
* Wichita ** Wichita *
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  • Location: Houston, TX

It was so nice out this past weekend I decided to buff my firebox lid back down and apply a fresh oil coating before doing a couple of short cooks. The resulting finish has all kinds of colors from gold to bronze to blue. Eventually it will turn dark bronze as before.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Yoder Loaded Wichita 2016
Large Big Green Egg 2014

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